Surface engraving is the go-to method when you need fast, high-contrast marks without removing a lot of material. It’s perfect for logos, barcodes, text, and serial numbers on anodized, coated, or polished surfaces.
Whether you’re marking tools, customizing gear, or adding branding elements, surface engraving delivers clean, professional results—without digging deep.
🔍 What Is Surface Engraving?
Surface engraving uses low to moderate power and higher speeds to mark only the top layer of the material. It doesn’t cut into the part deeply—instead, it either oxidizes the surface or lightly ablates coatings.
Think of it as etching with precision.
🧱 Best Materials for Surface Engraving
- Anodized aluminum
- Stainless steel (for annealing or dark marks)
- Painted/coated metals
- Polymers and plastics
- Cerakoted parts (with care)
⚙️ Recommended Starting Settings (JPT 30W – Anodized Aluminum)
| Material | Power | Speed | Frequency | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Anodized Aluminum | 15–20% | 1000mm/s | 60–70kHz | High contrast, crisp lines |
| Painted Metal | 20–25% | 900mm/s | 55–65kHz | Test for scorching |
| Stainless Steel | 30–35% | 700mm/s | 65kHz | Dark mark via oxidation |
🧪 Pro Tips
✅ Multiple passes can deepen contrast without increasing power
✅ Use air assist to reduce smoke and discoloration
✅ Clean surfaces before marking—residue affects contrast
✅ For coated parts, never overburn—you’ll strip the finish
🧯 What Surface Engraving Isn’t:
- It’s not for compliance when .003” depth is required
- It won’t hold up under harsh abrasion or sanding
- It’s not ideal for rough/raw metals unless you want a soft look
🎯 Perfect For:
✔️ Branding marks
✔️ QR codes & serials on anodized plates
✔️ Custom knives, flashlights, and electronics
✔️ Decorative text or images
Final Word
If you’re after speed, detail, and contrast, surface engraving is your best friend. When set up correctly, it leaves a lasting impression—literally and visually.
Next up:
🔜 “Fiber Laser Maintenance: Tips to Keep Your Machine Running Like New”
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